If you are looking for an authentic, relaxing and magical vacation by the sea, look no further than Puerto Vallarta, Mexico. Situated on the Pacific Ocean in Mexico’s state of Jalisco—the home of tequila—PV first achieved worldwide acclaim when Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton shot “The Night of the Iguana” there in 1963. Its attraction was so strong that the film’s legendary director, John Huston, made it his home in his final years.
But Puerto Vallarta is not just for Hollywood types, although it still attracts its fair share of them via convenient nonstop flights from Los Angeles. It’s for anyone looking for the real flavor of Mexico, and a vast array of recreational, culinary and cultural attractions in a unique colonial setting with magnificent natural beauty at every turn.
Located on the western slopes of the dramatic Sierra Madre mountains, moonlit walks in the sand, indigenous-inspired spa treatments, visits to art galleries and historic landmarks and interactions with friendly locals await our discovery.
Puerto Vallarta is on Central Time, and is home to about 350,000 people. The rainy season comes in late summer and early fall, when the area gets most of its precipitation. We went in late June, and loved the late-night thunderstorms.
Day 1, mid-afternoon:
We arrive at the ultramodern Puerto Vallarta International Airport Gustavo Diz Ordaz aboard one of those convenient nonstop flights from Los Angeles, ours on AeroMexico, and are promptly delivered to our oceanfront hotel, Secrets Vallarta Bay. The property has beautiful panoramic views of the Pacific that we also enjoy from the balcony of a luxurious guestroom all the amenities that you might expect, including scented candles. There is just enough time to unpack all of beachwear and warm weather apparel and take a little siesta keep us going through the rest of the evening.
Day 1, evening:
Dinner is served at Oceana, a seafood restaurant, at a private upstairs balcony for our group right over the beach and perfect for viewing the sunset. The resort also features five other dining choices with cuisine ranging from Italian to French, Mexican to Oriental. Yes, Secrets is an all-inclusive adult resort with a plethora of top quality dining choices for breakfast, lunch and dinner where no reservations are necessary. (There’s also 24-hour room service.) We are thrilled with our beautiful salad of organic greens and locally grown tomatoes wrapped in a tortilla and then the grilled mariscos as a main course. Room for dessert? Of course, as it’s homemade ice cream and Mexico is known for its delicious dairy products. We cap off the evening at the Rendezvous lobby bar with a specialty drink of the night, the Bob Marley, a strawberry and mango daiquiri.
Day 2, morning:
We are spending the first part of our day visiting the Malecón, a seaside promenade along Playa Camarones which features beautiful outdoor sculpture, art galleries, a cathedral, a main square, even a naval museum. The inland cobblestone streets of this downtown area also boast an array of shops, galleries and restaurants and provide an immersive experience into the local culture, everything from high-end jewelry and art work to touristy/tchotchke type souvenirs. Without fail, although shopkeepers and restaurateurs we encountered were friendly to a fault.
Day two, afternoon:
We continue our shopping and sightseeing nearby alongside the Rio Mascota, in picturesque botanical gardens on the river banks that are lined with shops that feature funky, colorful clothing and other merchandise that would appeal to the hippie sensibility. Again, shopkeepers call out to us, all in good spirits– rather than a total hustle– and often with an unexpected sense of humor that is apparently native to the people of Puerto Vallarta.
Day two, evening:
After freshening up at the hotel, it’s a short trip to Maritime Port where we embark on the Rhythms of the Night Tour that takes place on the nearby island, Las Caletas. After getting off the ferry, we enter a magical tropical environment and enter an outdoor theater for the experience that takes the audience back through Mexico history through song, dance and performance with elements that are reminiscent of Cirque du Soleil and also include dramatic fire dancing. It’s a spectacular, one-of-a-kind show – and what follows is also lovely– a private candlelit dinner overlooking the beach. It featured incredibly delicious local cuisine including the best ceviche we have ever had. If this sounds incredibly romantic, it is in the experience is available for weddings.
Day three, morning:
Much as we have enjoyed our stay at Secrets, it’s time to check out another venue, the Sunset Plaza, which is smaller and not as luxurious, but still a lovely beachside option from which to enjoy everything that PV has to offer. It’s located in a hotel strip along Playa Las Glorias. But we soon find ourselves in the mountains overlooking the gorgeous Vista at a wonderful place called Terra Noble, where we experience an outdoor massage using mineral salts indigenous to the area. It’s one of the most peaceful relaxing treatments we have ever had, and our masseuse was incredibly skilled. Terra Noble also offers an Aztec steam bath treatment, called Temazcalli. It’s a spiritual healing ceremony where mother Earth’s fertility is worshiped and you can get in touch with natural elements of fire, water, air and earth in a two hour experience, to the accompaniment of drums and chants.
Day three, afternoon:
We have a festive and leisurely lunch at Casa Magna Marriott, admiring the grove of agave plants at the entrance from which the hotel makes its own tequila—a nice keepsake to bring back to the States and remind us of our adventures in Jalisco. After a walk around the grounds, we had straight for the hotel’s Ohtli Spa for the day’s second treatment. This time it’s the Huichol, which strives to achieve balance and increase energy in conjunction with pre-Hispanic art details. Afterwards, we hit the sauna and relax by the pool.
Day 3, evening:
During our stay we have had nothing but amazing meals, whether it was breakfast at Secrets with fresh squeezed green juice, lunch at Casa Velas Beach Club or the superb dinner as part of the Rhythms of the Night Tour.
And this evening’s dining experience at the hillside Vista Grill was another incredible one. Walking into the beautiful restaurant, we were greeted with a traditional guitarist making the perfect musical accompaniment. But before sitting down, the lure of the incredible view demanded photographic attention. Yes we took multiple pictures, and especially magnificent were ones of the sunset over the bay. Vista Grill’s cuisine was also scrumptious, and the service attentive and friendly. So nice the environment that we decided to have an after dinner nightcap, while continuing to enjoy the amazing view.
As the visit to PV drew to a close, we couldn’t help but agree with director Huston, who wrote of his haven at Las Caletas: “Now that I’m of a certain age, I’m following a piece of old Irish advice in going to live by the sea: ‘It stops old wounds from hurting. It revives the spirit. It quickens the passions of mind and body, yet lends tranquility to the soul.’”
If you go:
Hotels:
Secrets Vallarta Bay, www.secretsresorts.com/vallarta-bay-puerto-vallarta
Sunset Plaza, www.sunsetplaza.com.mx/
Dining:
Casa Velas Beach Club, www.hotelcasavelas.com
Casa Magna Marriott, www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/pvrmx-casamagna-marriott-puerto-vallarta-resort-and-spa/
Vista Grill, www.vistagrill.com
Entertainment:
Rhythms of the Night Tour, www.vallarta-adventures.com/tours/rhythms-of-the-night
Spas:
Terra Noble Events Terrace and Spa, www.terranoble.com
Ohtli Spa, http://www.marriott.com/spas/pvrmx-casamagna-marriott-puerto-vallarta-resort-and-spa/ohtli-spa/5014783/home-page.mi
More information:
–Hillary Atkin
